Archive for 'Wine'

Italy 12 -Venice/Are you Gay or European?

July 2, 2009 by Kimberli, under Italy, love, photo, Venice, Wine.

NOTE: This blog is written in book form and best read from the first entry backward to the current date. Please continue to check in for upcoming chapters written in Italy and Croatia.  I will post the remaining writing and photos over the next 2-3 weeks.   Special Thanks to Joni Kabana for the photo on the top right corner of the blog!  Kimberli -  Portland, OR

Part 12 – Venice, Italy

He presses the length of his thigh tight against my shoulder and runs his fingertips down my bare arm as I sit.  italy-1682The checkered tablecloth is like all the others on the canal front restaurant.  Little electric lanterns hang on slack lines between umbrellas poles.  The night air still holds the heat of the day.  Surely, this waiter did not just do that, I think.  Do I wear a sign on my forehead saying, “Newly Divorced?”  He smiles as I crank my head ninety degrees to order a half litter of prosecco for Carmen and I.  He winks when he brings back the whole bottle.  His gold rings flash from his fingers.  Evidently we know one another better now as he practically slides into my lap.  It occurs to me that this might work well as I’m at least a foot taller then he.  Carmen and I exchange soundless laughter.  He pops the cork and I flinch.  “This is to start out with,” he says.

At the end of our expensive yet average meal, which includes an equally expensive bottle of processo and tip, we rise from the table intending to leave.  The waiter rushes over and kisses my check.  “Do you stay here tonight?” he asks in a sultry accent.  Where else would I go, it’s an island?  “Yes, goodnight,” I say and walk away toward the Rialto bridge, the lanterns shimmering off the canal water.  I wonder how many times a night he practices this tourist routine.  I wonder if he has a wife at home.  I wonder if that would have occurred to me at an earlier point in my life.  I wonder when I’ll be able to flirt again without being jaded.  I remind myself that everyone says it takes time.  How much, how long, how many?  I wonder.  A perfectly good Italian lover – squandered.  Or perhaps I’m just getting better at spotting the creeps.  I start humming a Lyle Lovett song as we walk into the night. “Look around and you will see.  This world is full of creeps like me.  You look surprised, you shouldn’t be.  This world is full of creeps like me.  I wear grandmother’s ring. On my finger, on my finger.  She had a tooth of gold.”

italy-1878Are you Gay or European?
It’s hard to say, especially in Italy where, unlike tonight, I can’t always read the signs.  Carmen sings me a song by Legally Blonde – “Gay or European?”  In a land where men kiss one another on the cheek in greeting, carry man-bags over their shoulders and wear short Capri pants, I have often wondered.  Men buy nice shoes, wear pink shirts, sport stylish haircuts, hold cigarettes between index and middle finger not thumb, and dance in tight tops with arms flung wide. Thoroughly confusing.   When men talk to one another here they stand close and often reach across and touch to literally make a connection and communicate.  It’s not like in America, where men generally keep a certain amount of personal space, a Zone, around themselves and then punch one other to emphasize a point.  American men hug if they are close friends, relatives or Democrats, but they still maintain their Zone.  Italian men stand within inches of one another even when there’s no one else crowding them together.  There’s another level of connection that would not be acceptable in America except in a gay bar.  Italians are wildly expressive compared  to Americans.  I wonder if this makes the men more intimate partners. If Italian men can use touch as a way to connect with other men, then does that make them more sensitive with women?  Do Italian women have the same complaints I often hear from American women, that men can’t just hold them without it leading to sex?  Probably.

I’ve made several friends in Trieste and I asked one of them about this recently.  “No idea,” he says.  This is a very common answer here.   “Okay, how do I know if a man is gay?”  I think this friend is gay, but then again, I’m not sure.  He tells me Trieste is a very ‘friendly’ city.  I point out examples. “What if he kisses me on the dance floor.” “Gay,” he says without hesitation. I haven’t been dancing like I was last week in years.  The 2AM kind of dancing where the music is too loud and you don’t care who’s watching.  “What if he kisses me and then when I tear up because it’s my first post-marriage kiss he tells me he’s also divorced and understands completely.”  “Still gay,” he affirms.  “Really?”  “I mean, really kisses me and wants to see me when I come back from Venice next week.”  “Gay, gay, gay.”  Then he adds, “We’re all gay.”  I wonder if this is just wishful thinking on his part.  I’m more confused than ever before, but looking forward to returning from Venice.
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italy-1668It’s now midnight and our last night in Venice.  Carmen and I are among the few customers left at our second little outdoor café.  I use the Italian words I’ve picked up over the past few weeks with my best fake accent to order sticky-sweet limoncello.  It appears before us in small triangular glasses.  It’s sugar, vodka and lemon rind, thick as maple syrup.  Served ice cold and tart, it’s like drinking a summer night itself.  I don’t want Carmen to leave for London tomorrow.

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Italy 11- Venice with no Therapist

June 30, 2009 by Kimberli, under Italy, love, photo, Venice, Wine.

Part 11- Venice, Italy
In the harsh light of midday, the Venetian canal water is the non-color of my interior designer sister’s bedroom.  It’s a brown-gray-green if you have to name it, but truly, it’s a non-color.  The kind that sets off what’s around it like the red, green and white of the Italian flag or crimson-winged lion flag of Venice.  Both flap in the wind as I pass through the canal.  italy-1654My sister likes this color.  I prefer not to eat anything that comes from it.  No fresh fish for me here.  Catch of the day?  No thanks.  The canals form the dark passages I could paint and are the roads that connect the towns’ walking streets.  No cars, only boats and water and whatever the boats leave behind in the water.  Imagine hauling everything you need or no longer need, in and out of your city by boat.  The ornate black gondolas with their customary blue and white striped sailor shirts and top hats with ribbons do none of this real work.  They sing to splurging tourists and remind me of the kindergarten convicts on the bus in Trieste.  Perhaps this is really what they were in training for.  I only mistook them for baby felons; they were really miniature gondola drivers.

Venice forces me to think more about photography and the lengths I would go to for a good photo.  In a place so beautiful, yet so insanely crowded, it’s actually quite difficult to get a great picture.  Try as I might, I just can’t get myself out of bed at 5:30AM before everyone else.  I want to erase the groups of Germans and Swedes that clutter my shots.  I selfishly want to be the only tourist here. I don’t want to be the one who clutters other photographers’ shots.  I know they are here because I see them with their long lenses and impatient toe tapping.  They’re waiting for me to move out of their photos as I wait for them to move out of mine.

italy-1688I’ve been here before and always imagined romantic adventures.  I’ve pictured gondola rides wrapped in the arms of some handsome Italian.  He in his dazzling white linen shirt and brown skin.  Me in my spray-on fake tan and skinny jeans that in reality don’t fit.  Now my fantasy involves mowing down the throngs of loud tourist with a rapid-fire machine gun.  Perhaps that sounds harsh. A simple BB gun carelessly pumped in the general direction of the crowd would surely mean someone would lose an eye in the fun and games.  The tourists would scurry off like the sugar ants and cyclists in Asolo, and I would have lovely uncluttered photos.  I wonder if I should worry about the underlying violence I seem to harbor as of late.  The way I use my butter knife, with it’s short dull edge, to painfully cut in half a six-inch salami sausage.  The way I smashed a bottle of South African wine after reading the label without even tasting it.  Yes, perhaps I should worry.  But I have no therapist in Europe and will just have to mind my primal instincts the best I can.  For today, the tourists, and others, are safe.  This must be the beginning of my angry stage.

Carmen and I try to lose ourselves in the narrow side streets and alleyways where, on occasion, we enjoy the luxury of being the only ones around.  It’s hot, the kind of hot you might expect in Venice during the summer.  The kind where you wilt like a flower and absolutely must stop for gelato – twice – in one afternoon.  I am gleeful to discover that fruit gelato, which might otherwise be called sorbet, but is somehow much smoother and creamier, does not have dairy.  I eat cantaloupe and strawberry, one scoop of each, in a cup.  My tiny spoon digs away at the melting mound with the enthusiasm of the energizer bunny.  I narrowly escape a brain-freeze.  Relief, we can walk at least another ten feet now until we can find a stand-up espresso.

We meet two women who are here on business for two weeks.  italy-1692They tell us of each and every gallery they’ve seen.  So much energy for this heat.  They have interesting careers that apparently take them to fabulous places and make them money.  I have no idea what’s next in my own career.  So many huge issues to face.  COBRA or health insurance for the self-employed with a pre-existing condition.  Now there’s an oxymoron.  A new mortgage payment, studio overhead, enough concentration to market to new commercial clients …  I’ve been avoiding thinking of this topic and want to delay it further.

They tell us of a month-long art show that is all the rage.  “Iceland,” as the show is called is only a short walk from the church steps where we rested with the women-of-perfect-lives.  We enter a building that sits facing the Grand Canal.  The water laps in through the barred doors and threatens the windows.  This is prime real estate in Venice.  Just be aware of the floods that cover the ground floor of the city 100 times per year. The artist sits with his paintbrushes and pallet at the back of the room.  The model sits in his underwear on an old tattered couch and smokes.  Both of them are writing in journals and seem to be in their own worlds.  There are empty beer bottles and blank canvasses scattered around the huge space.  There are several painted canvasses depicting the nearly naked model smoking what seems to be the same cigarette in various positions.   Sometime he drinks a beer or plays a guitar.  The artist will do one painting per day all month while the model apparently gets lung cancer and perpetually drunk.

Perhaps this is my next career.

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Italy 10-Sugar Ants in the Dolomites

June 30, 2009 by Kimberli, under grief, Italy, love, photo, Wine.

Part 10- Asolo, Italy

It’s morning in the foothills of the Dolomites.  Thunder roars like some grand medieval beast above our heads as we climb, step by lumbering step, up the cobblestone pathways toward fortress Rocca.  Carmen’s silver bejeweled flat sandals slide her backward across the rocks until they too finally catch her stride.  She leads the way as we walk straight up into the forbidding clouds that threaten to open up and wash us down again.  Down past the small vineyards that stripe the hillsides.  Down past the farmhouses and olive groves to the valley floor.  I feel like I’ve already been washed away in a landslide recently.  I’m determined to make it to the top of this mountain today.  It was not our intention to do this virtual trek when we started this morning.

italy-1763We walked out of our lovely Villa Vega in summer dresses and earrings on our way to the village Asolo, but were detoured by newly paved asphalt on the one and only road.  If we hike up to the fortress there might be another path down the other side, we reason.  Off we go.  It’s much higher and steeper than we think.  We are nearly at the highest point, the fortress just looming above us.  The air feels both thin from the altitude and heavy from the impending rain.  It’s difficult to inhale.  I think of the last song I wrote, the week my husband went away on business to NYC and never called.  The time before I knew about his lover.  “All the weight of your silent streak.  Heavy as granite lying over me.”  I try to sing it, but cannot catch my breath.  Green figs crush between my feet and the stone.  I imagine the purple pulp that will smear like jam under someone else’s sandals next month.  I think of the grief she too will likely feel in the future.  I squash another fig.  This time on purpose and with feeling.  In photography I look for patterns that repeat.  I haven’t been so good at seeing them in men.

italy-1807Earlier in the morning Carmen sleeps behind the green shutters on the third floor of our villa.  I sit at the picnic table on the clover lawn and think of language.  How I slow down my cadence and select my words carefully here.  I learn the English words Elisabetta or my other friends know and use those selections when I speak to them.  I also listen for their translations, butter – burro, and repeat them to myself.  I practice rolling my R’s in a trill, but my tied tongue fails me.  When I was young I worried that this flap of skin that connects my tongue to the base of my mouth like the webbed foot of a duck would keep me from French kissing.  I spent most of my fifteenth year mortified by the possibility until one night, from out of nowhere, it happened.  Imagine my relief!

Now I sit eating dry cornflakes with my tongue-tied tongue.  Dry because there is no soy or almond milk, and I’m absolutely intolerant of dairy.  No milk, cheese, butter/burro, yogurt, milk-chocolate or real gelato for me.  Nothing good!  Italy tortures me daily with delicacies I can’t eat and would surely have gobbled down otherwise.  But this morning there is brioche.  I know it’s full of butter, but it is warm and soft and calling me.  I take one small bite very quickly.   Perhaps I can fool my body if I eat it fast.  Oh, the taste, the melting in the mouth goodness, the cinnamon-sugar apple goo, the pain I’m going to feel in five minutes.  I throw the devil back into the breadbasket and cover it with a napkin.  Damn temptation!  The rest of my dry cornflakes and toast taste worse than before.

I finally push away the breakfast and watch the sugar ants on tiny legs scurry in unpredictable patterns across the long woods slats of the table.  The gold and blue painted dishware says, “Made in Italy,” not China, on the bottom and is written in English.  I think about the sweet foods I’ve missed here, but also the savory foods I’ve tasted.  I eat bread, pasta, olive oil and green olives and watch as the hollows of my cheeks and the lines around my eyes begin to fill in again.  Over the past four months I have become as thin as the professional bike racers who train in the Dolomites and travel the narrow valley roads I see below.  Their brightly colored costumes of purple and red spandex stand out against the green fields.  They, too, scurry like sugar ants as they pedal the zigzagged roads leading to the mountains.  We’re all awkward climbers today.

This night ends with Amarone wine.  Quite possibly the most delicious thing I’ve ever experienced.  italy-1796Our waiter for the past two nights here in Asolo, at Da Nino E Antonietta, swirls a small amount in bevel-bottomed glasses, then pours it out again, prepping the glasses for their most important hour.  I put my nose into the glass.  It’s so fragrant – chocolate, earth, something from my childhood I can’t quite put my finger on.  You don’t have to drink this wine to become intoxicated, simply inhale.  But the taste – the taste only enhances that amazing smell. It is like being transported to another level.  I’m feel that dizzy, dreamy intoxication of love after only one sip.  And there are many more sips after the first.

To Venice tomorrow.

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Italy 9-Outside Venice/Carmen is Betty Boop

June 26, 2009 by Kimberli, under grief, Italy, love, photo, Wine.

Part 9-  Asolo, Italy

My friend, Carmen Jones, is Betty Boop reincarnated.  From the adorable round face to the pixie haircut, Carmen is the epitome of cute.   italy-1833She has flown from her new home in London to Venice in order to escape the rain and spend four days with me.  We have taken the $10 train ride an hour northwest of Venice to the town of Castelfranco Veneto.  Along the way we pass through industrial towns and family-owned cornfields that line the train tracks.  From Castelfranco we are supposed to take an inexpensive taxi ride to the picturesque town of Asolo where Villa Vega, “our villa” is waiting.  Unfortunately, I have do not have an exact address to our villa.  I do have directions, but only in English.  In my mind, the handsome taxi driver would know exactly where our very special villa is in this land far faraway and in addition he would speak English.  Our driver knows neither, but is indeed handsome and smiles at us in the rearview mirror while driving us around and around and up and up to the base of the Dolomites.  $90 later we arrive at our villa.

italy-1822Our villa sprawls alluringly across the hillside like a lover observing the vineyards and valley below.  She stands a proud three stories tall and claims her place in the countryside like a prima donna, entitled and indulged.  From the silver-plated antique hand-mirror that beckons from the entry table to the jasmine that climbs up her garden walls.  Our Villa is the perfect Venician courtesan.  Quiet, worldly, detached.  Her backyard, a blanket of lush clover, a carpet for the hammock strung between two grand pine trees.  Love me if you must, she says.  And we do love her.

Since our Villa is just outside the village of Asolo, which crowns the hilltop, Carmen and I walk ten minutes uphill along the narrow country road.  We scurry off to the edge when the occasional car passes.  There are no sidewalks to save us from Italian drivers here.  Something that sounds like cicadas buzz.  We round a corner to find a spring and spigot with free flowing mountain water in front of the small church.  Inside the church walls are covered with the remains of frescos.  A candle and the low light of afternoon bring out the dulled pinks and apricots in the paint.  We walk past doorknobs that remind me of a man accessorizing.  The way some men chose a good pair of shoes or a watch to show glimmers of their personality, whereas a woman can don a red dress or wear fishnet stocking.  The doorknobs may go unnoticed unless you look for their magnificence.  Solid and strong, unique to each doorway along the walk.  This one shaped in a horseshoe, this one a cross.  The more we look the more we see.   All those stylized knobs on very similar looking doors and houses.  It’s as if each was trying to shake your hand and invite you in before the neighbor gets to you first.

italy-1787We walk past the small shop windows where wide flat wheels of aged parmesan jockey for your attention with low hanging air-dried salami. When we enter the doors the smell is so strong we can nearly taste the red pepper, salts and spices.  The Parmesan wheels are so valuable that banks sometimes hold them as collateral on debt here.  We climb to the old castle and up around the back gates where we find a café with outdoor tables and no customers.  Perfect.  We order a glass, then change it to a bottle, of the best Prosecco we’ve ever tasted.  It’s so nice to see one another here in Italy.  Using lovely long English words and talking fast.  No translation required.

We sit together, drinking our wine and looking out at the valley below.  The green and red shuttered windows of the village houses are mostly closed against the directness of the setting sun.  The church bell high in the tower rings and rings.  There’s no telling time by the bell, it simply rings for the sake of hearing it’s own tone.  Hundreds of pigeons roost in the abandoned house just below.  Their cooing and purring melds together into a low hum. Like the foundation of paint that washed over my blank canvas, their sound settles everything around it and allows the other sounds to be brighter.  Layer upon layer – the pigeons, the echoed ring of the church bell, the tizzied twitter of the swallow feasting on mosquitoes.  The voices of Carmen and I as we talk in a carefree way of flirty girl things.  We sound like we are reading aloud from the same trashy magazines we took to Mexico four years ago for poolside sun.  Later in the evening the pigeon sounds also support our voices through more weighty issues and events.  We are the kind of friends that do not need to be in constant contact.  We pick up where we left off regardless of the time or space between.  Carmen was there at my wedding and is here now.  How did we get here, I suddenly wonder.  To her I am the same, before and after.  To me I am not.  Carmen says, “I wish could fast forward your life four months.” I’ve been saying I wish I could rewind my life four months.  I think about this long into the night.  Fast forward.

italy-1722

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Italy 6- Elisabetta/Kitty Pizza

June 24, 2009 by Kimberli, under Italy, love, photo, pizza, Wine.

Part 6 – Italy

italy-9551I first met Elisabetta Bonino eighteen years ago while traveling through Italy with my college friend, Mojgan Sami.  We were new grads with degrees in International Affairs and backpacks full of tank tops and political theories.  Mojgan, with her thick black hair and provocative Persian almond eyes, was traveling between family members who scattered throughout Europe during the Iranian Revolution and fall of the Shah.  I was trying out the “affairs” part of my degree.  We were twenty-one and twenty-two with a six month grace period before the student loans would come calling.  We met up in Paris that summer and then again in Denmark where we boarded a train for Greece to spend six weeks at a Greek wedding party.  Why not?  I remember Mojgan asking me if I knew exactly how we would get to Greece.  “Go to Italy and take a left.”  Imagine the roar of youthful laughter when we reached the heal of the Italy’s boot to board a ship and found a large arrow pointing to our left that read,  “Greece.”

Sometime before being “doomed and anointed,” as the late cowboy singer Dave Carter might have said, with degrees in International Affairs we had signed up with a travel organization called Servas International. In the long ago days before the Internet, Servas travelers would write letters to Servas hosts in countries they wanted to visit.  You would arrange to stay with the host for two to three days.  Being the planners we were, we showed up in Rome and called Elisabetta unannounced at 10pm one night.  “We’re those girls from Oregon who wrote you a letter three months ago.  The boyfriend I met in Brussels last month, the one who was supposed to put us up tonight, didn’t show – could we come stay with you?”  Thus began a lifelong friendship and travels between the US and Italy ensued.

Elisabetta is sixty-three years old.  When we first met she was an actress, but has since retired and lives on a small pension.  She’s the most independent woman I’ve ever met.  In just the past few years she has traveled to Mongolia, Iran, Uzbekistan and Turkey – all on her own.  I’ve seen photos of her sleeping in cave dwellings and riding stocky Mongolian horses, the wind whipping her headscarf out behind her.  When I ask about her former partner of twenty-three years, Adalberto, he has also been to my house in the US and we’ve all traveled together to Canada, she only smiles.  ‘I’m so much happier now,’ she giggles.  ‘No one telling me what to do.  No walking on eggshells,’ is basically what I understand.  I wonder if I will be so much happier one day.  Although they split twelve years ago, we see him for lunch a few times.  They fight like an old married couple and then get to walk away from each other.  She laughs about this.  Elisabetta is clever and funny even in a second language and through translation.  Maybe even more so.  She forgets her map, her lists, her book in her fifth story apartment with no elevator and cusses all the way down the street.  “I use my head only to grow my hair,” she sputters.  I learn to swear like a real Italian while driving with her.

Although I try to be a good guest/roommate, I forget things.  These are the things that just don’t occur to me as an American.  I can’t remember to turn off lights every single time I leave a room.  If you walk from the bedroom to the bathroom and come right back, you still turn off the bedroom light.  I forget to unplug the computer at night to save energy.  I don’t always eat everything on my plate.  I scrape the small bits of leftover food into the garbage when I should save it.  I flush the toilet at night and use the hot water to wash my hands.  Both of which clatter and clang in the small, one bedroom apartment and wake my friend up in the middle of the night.  I drink up all of her precious Turkish coffee, which coincidentally is in the same Il Piatto container that my delicious Italian coffee is in, by mistake.  “But it says “@#$%^” on the lid,” she cries.  I don’t read Italian or Turkish.   I always know where I stand with Elisabetta.  Those waving arms and expressive Italian actress eyes tell me everything, even when it’s in Italian.  There’s no BS with her.  I am in tears one day, lost in my own thoughts.  “You okay?” she asks.  “Yes.” I lie.  “No, not okay, not okay at all,” she says as she comes to the couch and wraps me in her arms like a mother.  If she’s frustrated, happy, annoyed with me, I know it and it makes life so much easier than reading between the lines.  I have no energy for that right now.  Sometime you need your friends and sometime you need your space.  Just say it.

I recall her wiping up the spilled wine from the first morning, after the woman downstairs distracted me from my sleep with her orgasm, with newspaper not paper towels.  “You weren’t born during the war,” she says to me often.  Neither was she, but she was born right after.  Italy lost the war.  She tells me about how desperately poor everyone was. Her school served split pea soup and a tablespoon of cod liver oil for vitamins everyday for lunch, except Saturdays.  On Saturdays they got to savor the delicious diversion of bean soup.  Newspapers were torn into strips and used as toilet paper.  At home she ate milk and bread for dinner everyday.  She smiles broadly remembering her maternal grandmother, who saved money to buy her a chicken leg once.  She talks about some people who had to eat cats.  Taste like rabbit, which tastes like chicken, I suppose.  I imagine my orange tabby at home covering her ears with her paws.  No wonder I see so many stray cats here.  Stockpiling.  I have my cousin, who is watching my cat and house back home, email me a photo of her that night.  Not yummy, I think.

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italy-1109Pizza is yummy and I’m eating it Italian style, the whole pizza all to myself, while sitting in the sunshine. Elisabetta has been waving her arms at me and I’ve decided to give her some space and go for a walk – an all-day long walk.  While we have made our meals at home most days, I am excited to splurge on a lunch at a sidewalk café.  I use the little Italian I’ve picked up to order. I sit there letting the sun burn my bare legs.  I want to feel it.  Feel a different kind of pleasure and pain than what I’ve been feeling these past months.  The yellow tablecloth and hand-painted ceramic wine carafe grace my small table as I watch the green, white and red flag of Italy wave from a cafe across the street.  I order a bottle of still, not sparkling, water. One of Elisabetta’s favorite memories from America is of stopping in at a bar to use the bathroom and being greeted by the waitress with a cold glass of water.  Water is not simply brought to your table here.

italy-11111The most perfect specimen of Italian pizza that I’ve ever had the pleasure of consuming is set in front of me.  Red, red sauce.  Delicate artichoke hearts that beg me to love them.  Whole succulent black olives, their pits just waiting to be freed by me. I’m so in love with this pizza I need to take it’s photo.  The lovely curve of the brown baked edges and the straight lines of the yellow tablecloth.  I wait patiently, which isn’t easy, for the feet passing through the background of my picture, to move on.  “Run, damn it!” I want to yell.  I make sure the focal point catches an olive and the table corner lines up with the bottle.  Snap. I cut the pizza into sections then eat every bite using my fork and knife as they do here. After pausing for an eternity to watch the world on my walking street pass, I beckon the blond-haired, blue-eyed waiter, who has little interest in being interrupted from his own wine drinking, over for dessert.  My stereotypes of dark Italians are ruined here in Northern Italy.  Never the less, blondie brings a lemon sorbet in the most darling delicate glass.  I have little time to shoot before the sun begins to melt my sweat subject, and I can resist no longer.

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Italy 5 – Salty Sea and Peanuts

June 14, 2009 by Kimberli, under espresso, father, Italy, Osmizza, photo, Slovenia, Uncategorized, Wine.

…continued from Italy 4.  The Old Man of Ternova

Part 5 – Italy italy-1340

The light filters in through the fly-proof-velvet front door as the old man from Ternova sets a heavy silver pot on the stove top and lights the flame.  It percolates as we are directed to sit at the lace-covered kitchen table.  He shows us the room, one of two, one piece at a time.  This is our new stove, this is our refrigerator.  He draws our attention to a beautiful antique hutch containing the small espresso cups and saucers he will offer up for our coffee.  Passed down through his family, he says.  He hands me a small spoon and bowl of sugar.  The coffee is strong and works to counteract the glass after glass of red wine.  It’s a high percentage of Terrano grape mixed with whatever else he grows on his small farm.  Black or white wine here.  Not red wine or white wine, as we would say.  Not a specific vintage, just black or white.  Whatever grows on your land.  That’s what you can sell during your ten days.   It’s some of the best wine I’ve ever tasted.  My mouth puckers as the tang bites at the back corners and makes my molars twinge.  Again, the red clay has served its true purpose.

I think of how my father told me, in his final year, that he wished he had gone to war with his three older brothers.  He says this as we try to figure out where he will live and how my siblings and I will pay for his care.  My father, who was twelve years older then the man of Ternova, could have been the soldier who needed his own shoes and denied them to a child.  He could have been the GI who taught the boy to say, “cunt.”  Instead, he was forced to stay behind on the Washington state dairy farm and manage things for his newly widowed mother who was short three sons.  I imagine my father milking cows and making cheese that this man, as a boy, was dying to have.  My uncles sending the kid to town for prostitutes, not knowing if they would make it home to wives or perhaps not caring after what they had done and seen.  When my father says he wished he could have been there what he means is that he wishes he could have the health care in his old age and not burden his children.  My father was not a man of many words.  He seldom talked.  Period.  Perhaps his brothers were the same.  Did they ever really tell him about the war as this man was telling me?  Or did they protect their younger brother from the realities of WWII?  Was it left behind or lived out in silence the rest of their days?  My uncles were welcomed home as heroes, but I wonder if they were ever heard as men.  What they must have seen.  The stories they must have held close. The boys from Ternova they must have met.

My camera clicks away as we enter the back of the house, the cellar, where the smoked ham legs and long, thickitaly-1339 sausages are hung. The smell is overpowering, but the light is perfect. The youngest son of this man is my age.  His wife-beater undershirt and cigarette give him the look of my cousin Steve who, in the ’70s, rode with a motorcycle gang.  This son, however, winks at me as he tries to speak Slovenian with an English accent.  He wants me to take pictures of him and his dog.  It’s a big deal, these photos of his dog.  It occurs to me that these 10 days of life each year are their experience of the world.  They don’t own a camera.  I ask them if I can email photos back from America.  They don’t have a computer, or a phone.  I tell them I’ll send them prints.  They gather around the makeshift bar, everyone in the yard – cousins, girlfriend, dog and discuss what their address might be.  The postman has finished his lunch and wine and vanished.  They finally bring out a slip of paper with all the information written in the wrong order.  Elisabetta corrects it for me when we return home.  I ask why they don’t know their own address.  “Didn’t they have to give it to the water company or someone?”  “Yes, probably originally.”  Then I remember, the old man from Ternova saying, “This farm has been in our family for 300 years.”  It’s been a very long time since they hooked up the water.

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Salty Sea and Peanuts

Groups of children are equally noisy wherever I’ve been.  They likely all say the same types of things in any language, “Ah, he has a booger!  Look at his booger!  You farted!”  The children of this bus must be on a field trip, I think.  Perhaps to a prison, as they look like aspiring convicts.  Rough little Italians, even at the tender age of five and six.  I’ve finally figured out how to buy a bus ticket, boarded my first bus, unraveled the mystery of validating the ticket and then this!  Baby felons.  I’m off for a cultural excursion to Miramare Castle.  Something about Maximilien, Emperor of Mexico, and a summer home.  I’m sure it’s all very interesting and would make for beautiful photographs, but what I’m really about today are the beaches I saw when I passed the castle on the way in from the airport.  It’s hot. I need cool water and silence.  I want salty water and peanuts.  Maybe I’ll make it to the castle for some culture later, I think.

As the bus lurches away from the station the prospective criminals begin their assault.  They are pushing and teasing as their schoolmarm-ish teacher-guards watch with practiced resignation.  If they riot, will the marms react? I’m sitting in my little seat minding my own beeswax, my face resting on my hand so I can plug at least one ear, trying to block out the chaos.  I think of my happy-place on the beach.  I’m like this around groups of small children.  I don’t have the “off” switch that most parents have for babble.  I hear everything.  Everything.  All the time, everything.  Children one at a time work best for me.  Preferably with a muzzle, in case of an emergency.  Then only if they are related to me.  Then only on Tuesdays.  I can say that because I’m in Italy.  Many things happen only on Tuesday.  Or Wednesdays after 1pm or every other Friday.  That’s just how it is.  Try to buy fish here, for example.  Only Thursdays mornings on the north facing side of the street.

So we’re on the bus and these miniature jailbirds are caw-cawing away and gyrating like actors in an Indian musical.  I’m plugging my ears and thinking, “happy place, happy place,” when I see the one in front of me pointing to someone or something in back of me.  He has huge brown Italian puppy dog eyes that would be lovely in a soundless photo.  I’m imagining him in print when I see his terror on his face.  “Ragno, ragno,” he yells and points.  I catch myself before I turn to look behind me at what must be no less then Freddy Kruger himself when I realize that he is looking directly at me.  Ragno, I’ve heard this word from Elisabetta’s grandson.  Ragno, sounded like Arachno to me.  Arachno, Arachnophobia… SPIDER!” the translations runs through my head.  Spider in my hair.  I fly off my beeswaxed seat and shake my head.  The ragno falls to the floor and the children scurry out the door as their stop arrives.  I swear I see their black and white striped shirts disappear through the gates.  I turn to the people behind me who I’m sure say something like, “You go girl,” though it’s in Italian.  The bus is silent the rest of the way to the castle.

italy-2007I see the castle over the hill and through the woods, and turn and walk the other direction.  The water is, indeed, clear and cold and salty.  I take out my peanuts, as well as my borrowed red towel, and look for a place to sit here on this “free beach,” i.e., a concrete pier.  It’s right next to the “pay beach,” which is the concrete pier a few feet away, but costs ten Euro and includes a lounge chair.  As I’m reaching for my book and getting myself situated a chorus of voices says, “Ciao, Luca!” I look up to see the wide-mouth smile of Luca.  This young man with Down’s Syndrome soaks in the welcome and then jumps straight off the pier into the water.  His mother, lines running deep in her sun baked face, pushes back her flowered headscarf and slides out her clothes down to her thong bikini bottom.  She is received as warmly as Luca.  It’s obvious that this group of fifteen or so people know one another well.  A petite woman with curly blond/brown hair and a killer body looks up at me as I adjust my sunhat and apply more sun block.  She asks in Italian if I want her to move her blue jeans and bag.

Thus begins another friendship here in Italy.  MariaPia is somewhere closer to my age then the young newlywed couple and gregarious Sara-of-the-red-dress that I met the first night of my stay here in Italy.  Though they also play an important part.  She is old enough to have her PhD in mathematics, but young enough to still be doing her post-doc work instead of a full-time position.  She is old enough to have lived abroad for a number of years, but young enough to want to again.  And me?  Am I older or younger then that, I wonder. MariaPia speaks English and shares my peanuts – good enough reasons to be friends.  We make a plan to meet again – perhaps Croatia?

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Italy 4 – The Old Man of Ternova

June 7, 2009 by Kimberli, under father, Italy, love, Osmizza, photo, Slovenia, Uncategorized, Wine.

Part 4 – Italy

I stare intensely into the side of his face as he speaks to Italian to Elisabetta. She translates, but I’m not hearing what either are saying, his words float around my head like clouds of cotton.  I’m almost dizzy.  I want to reach out and touch him like I did my father, that last morning nine months ago – and I do.  The palm of my hand reaches across and settles on his cheek.  His brilliant blue eyes, as clear as my father’s were, turn to me.  I can feel the stubble of his morning shave and see the patches of white whiskers on the creped skin of his neck.  His wife of fifty years must have recommended he swipe his nose with the blade for this special week as well.  Dark, empty pockets hold fast on the fleshy mound.  When my father could no longer reach up to pull the skin of his neck taunt to one side, he too would cultivate plots of whiskers like winter wheat.  Long, thick hairs grew from the cartilage of his ears and ridge of his brow.  I imagine his mind, as it wandered at the end, picturing tiny combines mowing down these crops and bailing them into little rectangles to be stacked for the fall feed.  Not the rounded bails farmers roll out today.  Like this sweet man, my father had a better memory for the far faraway past.

Someone recently sent me an email.  If you get a second chance, grab hold of it with both hands.  So for the two and a half hours I spent drinking wine, eating homemade prosciutto, fresh bread and taking photos, I held tight to my second chance.  In some way this old Italian-Slovenian man became my father – a little visit, if only in my mind.

Here in Northeast Italy there is a very special exception to the normal food and alcohol laws.  Families can, for ten days or so, italy-1262hang a tree branch outside of their family winery or farms, and sell whatever they themselves produce. These once a year outdoor “restaurants” appear and disappear as quickly as you can find them.  They are called Osmizza, in Italian, or Osmica, in Slovenian.  I call them absolute heaven.  A peak inside the gates of country life in Italy.  I want to follow every branch and sign down every country road into every little farmyard.  But today, we found this Mr. Alberto Skerk on the side of the road and followed him home to his family in Ternova Picoola.

I studied his face and listened to the singsong rhythm of his stories.  There in his old blue pants and stripped suspenders, his face was a dried lake bed.  I could nearly see where the water had traveled then disappeared.  How the childhood he described were the cracks and crevasses.  How drawn and gaunt must have been the face of the ten-year-old boy, once supple and plump.  I imagine the elasticity of hope that gave way to texture of hunger as WWII took away his father, uncle and food.  “We had nothing to eat,” he said. “My mother left us four children with our grandmother as she walked the countryside looking for flour.”  I imagine what cold comfort the grandmother may have tried to give them.  Here where the limestone rivers run deep into the earth with only a thin film of dirt at the surface.  No gardens of rounded eggplant leaves.  No lines of cherry trees crisscrossing the land then.  Rock and water.  “The Germans took my uncle to a concentration camp.  He came home a skeleton.  They rounded people up off the street, no reason.  Just there, in the street,” his large, callused hand point beyond the wooden gate to the cobblestone, “bodies all over.”  His shoulders fall forward and his face is dark.  “Germans,” he curses under his breath.  The war is tactile here.

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We sit quietly for a while.  We pour more red wine into small glasses.   He tells about the first troops to come after that.  3000 New Zealand men in this small village, spilling out over the hillsides.  They set up their kitchen, “There…” he points out the same place he did before.   Sometimes they had extra food and fed the children.  Eggs, bread.  “We had no clothes, nothing.”  After that the Americans came.  “We asked them for shoes. But, no.” He waves his hands in a sweeping motion and the dog scurries from under the picnic table.  “Get outta here!” he yells, remembering their words.  Did I really just hear that?  I’m dumbstruck.  This 74-year-old man who wears his years like he’s 90, just opened his mouth and shouted in the perfect nasal-twang of 1940’s American vernacular, “Get outta here!”  Jimmy Stewart couldn’t have said it better.  The vowels ring with a Brooklyn “ou” and the hard “e.”  Then he gets a wily smile and says to no one in particular, “Cunt!”  His face crinkles in on itself and he giggles like the schoolboy he would have been when the American soldiers last spoke the word.  He wants to know what it meansh but from his reaction I can see that has spent the past 64 years with a pretty good idea.  There’s more wine as the postman walks through the gates and has his lunch with the small group of relatives who stand around the makeshift bar.  The Americans didn’t give them shoes, he recalls to us, but they did give them a way to make money.  The GIs would pay him and his young cousin to go down to the town, Trieste, 15 kilometers, about 9 miles, and bring back the prostitutes.  There was no shame, everyone needed a way to make money.

A tiger-striped cat runs though the open farmhouse door.  1898 is carved into the limestone frame.  My family has been here for 300 years, he says to us.  The old man walks to the entryway and pushes back the coconut husk ropes that feel like velvet and keep the flies out.  The cat has come for lunch, he explains.  He motions for us to come with him.  I grab the camera and adjust the setting for the lowest light I can.  Some opportunities don’t come around twice…..

To be continued….

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Italy 3 – Of Straight Lines and Curved – In a Land Far Faraway

June 4, 2009 by Kimberli, under Alps, Italy, love, photo, Slovenia, Wine.

Part 3 – Italy & Slovenia

I’m standing next to my canvas in Painting 101, it’s 2006.  I’ve taken versions of this same class for years.  It’s like tennis.  You keep taking lessons and finally someone asks, “Don’t you know how yet?”  The instructor wears baggy pants with a corduroy jacket, a scarf tucked inside the lapel.  He has mounds of sloppy gray hair that fall forward over his round glasses as he talks to us, all the while looking over our heads at the wall.  He doesn’t introduce himself that day of our first class, Mark Andres, just begins.  There is a simple concept he learned through one of his mentors.  He will share it with us.  We wait.  He shifts his gaze to the window.  There are straight lines and there are curved lines. That’s all.  Look for them.  Their patterns repeat.  I think of this almost everyday now, both in photography and life in general. italy-1101

The delicate curve of a petite woman’s wrist.  The hard line of a chiseled jaw.  The feminine roundness of an eggplant leaf that grows in the gardens here in Slovenia.  The masculine straightness of the hoe the old farmer uses to plow his field by hand.  Rows of cherry trees in perfect lines crisscross a field.  The bending red river of juice that flows from lip to chin after we stop to buy a kilo at the side of the road.  Round barrels of wine lined up side by side at the farmers house where we have lunch. The sharp peaks of the Alps rising up through the sky, the soft arc of the stone bridge crossing the Soca River.  Straight lines and curved. The way life never goes in a long direct line, but from point to point for some and in great loops and swirls for others.

These lines can also surprise us when we look in the mirror or at one another. Lines that cross my face.  The flat line silhouette of a friend’s mastectomy.  The unyielding curved edge of a young soldier’s casket.  Lines on a map define us as nations and states.  Men drew a line through Berlin dividing a city, a people, a family – like here in Gorizia/Nova Gorica.  One side Italian, one side Slovenian.  A line drawn in pencil, thin and light.  Erasable, changeable.  A heavy thick line of pen, permanent, indelible.  A line drawn in the sand.  Cross it and you end a marriage and, of course, he did.

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“Look, a land far faraway,” says Elisabetta as we drive from hill to seaside where, on a clear day, you can see the Italian Alps and occasionally the Dolomites.  There’s a haze in the distance today and despite the bright sunshine we can see neither.  I tell her that I can’t see my place that’s far faraway, only what is immediately in front of me.  The future is too clouded right now.  I prefer my 85mm lens to my wide angle 24-70mm.  Too much information is overwhelming at the moment.  I have to look for the bold graphic elements to compose my shots as well as my life.  Elisabetta loves this expression, “…far faraway.”  It reminds her of Shrek.  I think of fairytales, white knights, Prince Charming.  I think I might throw up.

It’s Tuesday and yet another holiday in Italy.  Republic Day, or something like that, is all the more anyone cares to tell me.  We just had a holiday two days ago, as well.  There’s another next Tuesday. Then the elections.  The children will attend school only four out of the next ten school days.  All of this is made up for with school on Saturday mornings.  What a drag.  But for today, the children are free and we pile in to two cars and head for a day in the Slovenian countryside.  Elisabetta, four of her six grandchildren, her son and Argentinean daughter-in-law and one American.  As we drive across the abandoned boarder checkpoint, I’m amazed at the ease of crossing.  No longer are special papers required, no guards, no guns.  Slovenia has been taken into the fold of the European Union since my last visit.  Euros buy the children potato chips and sodas at the gas station.

italy-1121Around every corner there seems to be another castle.  Perhaps I am in the land of far faraway, I think to myself.  Too bad I didn’t leave my baggage at the boarder.  Who was it that said, “Wherever you go, there you are”?  That’s my problem now; my mind keeps following me everywhere.  I focus on the lines and curves to keep myself present, if only for a while.

This is a perfect place for photography or songwriting.  The red clay contrasts directly with the complimentary green vineyards.  Color theory at work.  It’s so fertile I’m afraid to walk on it.  The grape vines and rose bushes could be kudzu.  It reminds me of the Mississippi delta red clay.  In 2000 I was a touring singer-songwriter who had been on the road in the US for nearly three years.  These lyrics “…where the kudzu vines cover up the road signs that nobody reads anyway – ‘cause the only folks here been here for years and they all know these roads inside out,” ring true.  These people have been here for generations.  They know their roads, wines and wars.italy-1011

There is the most fantastic turquoise water I’ve ever seen.  More of a milky green.  Even more vibrant then the glacial lakes I saw in Coopers Landing, Alaska.  I remove the polarizing filter from my lens, as I want to make sure there is absolutely no modification of this color.  Here along the Soca River the small villages either melt into the clay or sit high upon the white limestone crests of the canyon.  That water, the color, is literally unbelievable. The Alps build in a great musical crescendo in the background.  One image layered upon the next.  The shutter flickers away, but I can tell that I’m not getting anything as beautiful as the simple experience of it all.  So I put down the camera and try to enjoy this land of far faraway.

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Italy 2 – The runaway bride of Trieste

May 31, 2009 by Kimberli, under espresso, Italy, love, photo, Wine.

italy-3741Part 2 – Trieste, Italy

This is my sixth trip to Italy and perhaps the fifteenth time to Europe over 24 years.  Until the last few years I had rarely stayed in hotels while traveling.  Fortunately I’ve always made friends easily.  Friends with couches and spare rooms.  Staying with friends has allowed me to temporarily “live,” if only for a few weeks or a couple months, in the places I’m visiting.  When I was 16, spending a year in Denmark as an exchange student, my host family brought me with them to Italy for a business trip.  It was the first time I was drunk in public.  Not the last.   Not even the first time I was drunk.  That was one year before while in California at a family reunion.  My liberal aunts and uncles kept secretly bringing the kids table bottles of cheap wine.  I have a fantastic tape recording of myself and my cousin, Deanna, the only two actually drinking all that wine, with a guitar.  It was long before I knew how to play.  In the same way that passing by a bottle of Cold Duck at the grocery store makes me laugh, Italian food does as well.  The part I remember most about the first trip to Italy was plate after plate of Italian pasta and glass after glass of Italian wine thrust in front of me.  Eat, Eat!  My host father’s handsome Italian business partner had the graciousness to ignore the host daughter, cross-eyed after the second glass, and kept pouring.  To this day, the smell of pasta with clam sauce brings back memories of a night spent draped over a small Italian toilet.  More on Italian toilets later.  italy-1521

This all to say that I love traveling and in particular visiting Italy.  So, yes, absolutely, I’ve read the books, Under the Tuscan Sun, by Frances Mayes and  Eat, Pray, Love, by Elizabeth Gilbert.  The latter was high on my list of things to do a few months ago in December 2008 while sitting on the beach in Puerto Rico, just beyond the walls of our five star Ritz Carlton Hotel.  After years of couch-surf-travel, I was fully appreciating the luxury of stars, especially several.  My husband was next to me, his head covered by a towel to block the sun as he emailed away on his crackberry.  Odd, I remember thinking. He has been working so hard these past few months – nights, weekends.  He’s always stressed now and his fuse so short.  Nothing I do seems to help.  I think to myself this must be what they call a rough patch.  My wonderfully attentive husband had suddenly stopped asking me to marry him again every other week.  We had been together 5.5 years and most of it had been a honeymoon.  I didn’t know I could be so in love. However, since he returned from a conference in South Africa three months before, his work has become all-consuming.

So it was, Eat, Pray, Love that kept me company that day on the Puerto Rican beach.  I had seen the book reviews and heard the buzz.  I love travel stories and had been looking forward to settling in with this one.  I’m an avid reader, but hadn’t picked up a book since my father had died four months earlier, then my husband’s godfather after that.  I remember feeling grateful that I could concentrate again and that the sadness had finally lifted.  Christmas would be upon us as soon as we returned home, and this blue sky and beach was only here for the moment.  It was snowing back in Portland, Oregon.  As I sipped on my mojito and sank into the story I remember turning to my husband and asking if there was a problem back at work.  “No, nothing,” he said from under the towel.  I tried to tell him about the crazy author who was sobbing on her floor because she needed a divorce.  Even as I sat with my father’s body the day he passed I did not feel that kind of sorrow.  I certainly cried, but I did not feel the gut wrenching pain this woman obviously did.  Nor could I, quite frankly, relate to it.  I continued through the book, noting to myself that the author was a bit nuts, but I loved experiencing her travel adventure and her laugh-out-loud wit.

One and a half months later, back at our comfortable home, I suddenly understood her.  Right there on my own kitchen floor.  I couldn’t get up, couldn’t stop sobbing, couldn’t breath, couldn’t think.  My world was turned inside-out with one phone call from South Africa.

italykimberli-531It’s May ’09, four months later now, and I’m here in Italy again – not with my husband as I was two years ago when we traveled to Santorini, Greece and then to Rome to visit Elisabetta.  I’ve come here alone, avoiding the finalization of our sudden divorce.  I’ve run away just like in the Italian TV news story yesterday.  A bride from Trieste ran off with the limo driver right after the wedding pictures.  She went to change out of her dress and jumped in the car with the driver instead.  I wish I had been the photographer and caught that one.  “Keep running,” I might have yelled.
I imagine all this as I gulp down espresso while standing, not sitting, in the café and begin my day.

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I took a boat trip across the bay to visit the town of Muggia.  With Google Earth you can be there too, although maybe not exactly in the same way I was.  You won’t get rained on, nor will you hear the gravelly voice of the old man who has likely smoked for seventy years. The small streets in the center are just as you might imagine them, however.  Narrow walking paths between buildings of raw sienna and ocher.  Clothes strung outside the window shutters to dry in the fresh air.  It’s 10:30AM by the time I arrive and a few locals sit in the cafes and bars.  I wandering in and out of the streets looking for a good shot.  I discover windowsills and doorways accented with stray cats and tall plastic bottles full of water.  The bottles sit on the thin doorway steps, two or three per house.   Water delivery?  Water for outdoor plants?  When I finally ask the reason I am assured that they are there to scare away the stray cats.  Hmmm, not working.

On Packing: Never take my advice.   I’m terrible at it.  I always forget something, sometimes everything.  For example, this time I forgot to bring my pants.  Here I am, no long pants, no jacket.  In my mind it’s always 80 degrees and sunny in Italy.   In reality it’s been 91 and humid or 61 and raining as it was today.  At least I brought good shoes, very important in Italy.  You won’t believe the 4 inch purple heals I discovered on a woman yesterday.  Yes, I photographed them, just for your viewing pleasure. Two weeks ago, when I was debating coming to Italy, I sent an email out to some of my girlfriends.  Should I or shouldn’t I?  Was I sane enough yet?  Did I have enough money?  Was it a crazy last minute idea and someone needed to bring me back to reality?  My friend, Kim Brecko, replied with this, “What to think about except what shoes to bring?”  I bought the ticket immediately.

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On Photography:  On good shoes, beauty and interesting faces.  When you see it walking down the street – shoot it.   You’re a hunter.  Follow it, stalk it, run, skip or push a kid off of his bicycle to get to it.  If it’s great and you need to have it in your little photographer hands – it’s almost always possible.  Ask, don’t ask, it depends on the situation.  I love shooting food and wine.  I love it even more when I have something or someone interesting in the shot as well.  For example, you’ll see two photos of the favorite local drink here in Trieste, “Spriz Apenol.”  It’s a fabulous concoction of white wine or prosecco, mineral water, aperol or campari.  Go ahead, try this one at home, kids.  Here’s a demonstration. I’m already friends with the waiter at “Urbanis” sidewalk bar.  Here’s how it works: he brings me a beautiful local drink and a wide variety of appetizers.  I photography them wide open, meaning whoever is in the background becomes blurred, then consume them.  Perfect!  Then we start all over again.

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Italy 1 – “Isn’t it magnificent?”

May 28, 2009 by Kimberli, under espresso, Italy, photo, Wine.

Homemade vino blanco & prsciutto

Part One – Trieste, Italy
I awoke to the sound of a woman’s orgasm. Really, it was beyond impressive.  The scream followed by rhythmic howls echoed around the courtyard and up through my open windows.  It’s as if she were saying, “Welcome to Italy.  We are so glad you’re here.”  I look at the clock, it’s 4:30AM.  I’m pulled back under by a jet-lagged slumber.  I awake again, this time to the smell of espresso.  I stumble into the small kitchen where my friend of 20 years and hostess, Elisabetta, is standing at the sink.  “I don’t know if you’ll understand this,” I say, “but last night I heard a woman….”  She laughs so hard she knocks a bottle of wine from the counter and it shatters all across the kitchen floor.  I sit still as she sweeps the shards from around my feet and tells me about the new neighbor.  On hot summer nights like last night, when all the windows of the courtyard open to the cool air outside, she keeps the elderly residence awake for hours.  I wonder if they are as envious as I am.  The smell of spilled red wine mixes with my espresso as I start thinking of the adventure this trip will be.

I’ve come to Italy to heal, to photograph, to shake of the numbness from my body and find joy in the details again.  I’ve somehow missed the past four months of my life.  Not that I wasn’t there, surely I must have been.  It’s just that I can’t imagine it all changed so quickly.  More on that later.  Now, I am here, on the Adriatic Sea in the very corner where Italy gives way to Slovenia.

I finally get outside with my camera, but I’ve missed the precious morning light. So I began scouting the nooks and crannies of the city.  The narrow pathways between old buildings, the zigzag staircases leading up the hills to yellow houses and streets lines with scooters.  I look at the sun, where is it now, where would it have to be for the photo I envision?  I think of the woman who might walk up the stairs this evening, in her black dress and heals, heading to the cafes that line the sidewalk.  I will return to this place several times during the days to come, as I will the other places I’m discovering, to watch the light, the colors and the people who pass.  As I am walking by one of my small alleys at exactly the wrong time for good light, I see an old man with a bag of groceries walking through the archway. He’s backlit, so his body is a shadow.  I put the camera to my eye, quickly adjust the settings and shoot three shots before he turns the corner and walks back out of my lens and into his life.  I subscribe to the philosophy of carefully thought out shots, but when the spontaneous moment occurs – grab your camera and shoot!  italy09-2

When the light is too flat, and I am simply too hot, I decide it’s time to take a break and head for the water.  I’m on the Adriatic coast, and from what I saw during the drive along the shore from the airport yesterday, the locals make the most of it.  Especially during this May heat wave when we are all soaked with sweat. I’m told that Trieste is known for it’s separate male and female beach.  The only one in Italy.  Why would I want to go to a all woman’s beach in the land of Mr. Tall Dark and Handsome, I think to myself.  Of course, that is exactly where I ended up today.  It is also exactly where I needed to be.

Alone in Italy, surrounded by women.  I don’t speak their language, they take no notice of me, but as I watch them sitting there in twos and threes or alone, talking, laughing, connecting.  Mothers, sisters, friends, lovers. I know I’m in the right place and that these women have as much in common with me as the women who have held me up during these past few months.  The ones that have cried with me, made me food and brought flowers, as if someone had died.  The ones who listened to my same questions over and over, the ones who came to pick me up off the kitchen floor when I couldn’t stop sobbing.  No, I don’t try to talk with these women on the beach, all ages, all sizes, sagging, bronzed, scarred, beautiful in their aged and sagging bodies.  I don’t have to.  I sit quietly surrounded by and feeling part of them even though I am from the other side of the world. Somehow I know, they get me.Women

I don’t take my camera to this beach for two reasons.  1) water and Canon 5Ds don’t mix, and 2) my soul sisters are mostly topless and would probably not appreciate their boobs on the internet. I do, however, spend time thinking about how I would shoot.  What would be the two most interesting shots?  I go through the technical aspects as well as the composition in my mind, then relax and enjoy.  It won’t happen, but it’s worth the exercise to think about it.

I sit on the rocky beach, stones the size of plums, observing the mass of femaleness from behind my sunglasses. I imagine my wonderful Irish grandmother alongside the 85-year-old woman I see walking out of the sea toward me.  Her great brown breasts resting on her round Italian belly.  I can’t help but compare my body to those all around me.  I win the prize for being the whitest of the white.  I even surpass the babies that sit with their mothers under umbrellas.  Unlike this olive-skinned flow of women, I am a neon sign.  The first purchase I made when arriving was a bottle of sunscreen.  “To avoid cancer,” I tell Elisabetta.  The second was a bottle of self-tanner. “To give you cancer,” she tells me.  If I’m imaging my grandmother on this beach, then it’s easy enough to bring my birth mother into the image as well.  She would win the much contested, but justly deserved prize for the biggest boobs on the beach.  I’m not sure of their size, but if there’s such a thing a Z cup then she’s a triple.  Evidently, I inherited mine from my birth father.  It occurs to me that by the time I return to the US she will have been surgically altered to a C cup.  Sometimes bigger is not better.  I suddenly regret not having photographed them before I came here.  I could have taped the photo between the wide-open space on my chest, “Really, I am related to these.” I could have said.  In reality, however, no one on my beach cares about florescent skin or genetic misfortune.  I lie back on my rocky towel and close my eyes.
When I finally open them there is a little boy, perhaps two, standing in front of me.  In one easy movement he pulls down his swimming trunks and displays his wee wily.  He proudly looks around at the sea of women and smiles broadly as if to announce, “Have you ever seen such a magnificent sight?”

Some things never change.

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